Planet Guinea Shop…

The Planet Guinea shop has been unavailable since early June with the estimated reopening being on the first of July, however a few technical problems meant that wasn’t going to happen and although the shop is done and finished there are glitches beyond my control that are still being worked on. The shop will be up and ready to use as soon possible, I am hoping, but cannot guarantee, this will be no longer than a couple of wheeks.

If in the meantime you wish to order some Wheekgrass or Easigrow leave a message here or email info@guineapigwelfare with your request and we will send you a Paypal address.

Easigrow 250g 3.50

Easigrow 500g £6.00

Easigrow 750g £8.75

Planet Guinea Wheekgrass 150g £2.70

Planet Guinea Wheekgrass 300g £5.00

As soon as we are back up we will post here :)

July 23, 2010   Posted in: Miscellaneous  No Comments

Planet Gorgeous Growing Hints and Tips:

There is still a great deal of confusion over what varieties of grass can be grown and when and where, Planet Gorgeous hope to answer them here, but if you have a more specific query please email us: planetg@planetguinea.co.uk

  • I want to start growing some grass for my guineas as I live in a flat.  Can I just buy grass seed from the local DIY store?

Grass bought from local DIY stores is often a Rye Grass mix, specifically blended for hardwearing lawns, not for guinea pigs and not for indoor growing! The grass will grow, slowly, but will work out more expensive and much more time consuming than buying a grass specifically selected for indoor growing, such as EasiGrow or Wheekgrass. We do not recommend growing Timothy or Orchard Grass indoors for the very same reasons, the root structure requires more than indoor growing can provide.

  • I’ve heard that it is too early to grow grass – is this true?

No, the correct variety can be grown year round in the correct conditions. All that is needed is warmth and moisture in the correct amounts for seed to germinate. Seeds are hindered by spots that are exposed to condensation and where there is a lack of moisture. On Planet Guinea we grow grass all year round for the guests and residents here. It is about selecting the right grass to grow for your situation. We always advise growing one of the Cereal Grasses indoors, no matter what the time of year is.

  • What is the best compost to grow grass and herbs in?  I hear conflicting information about some that contains animal products and would rather avoid these if possible.

We use Brilliant Bricks. These are made from Coconut waste and are organic. There are no animal products contained in the Brick and in effect you are recycling the waste from coconuts. The compost retains water better than peat and other composts and if it should dry out it reabsorbs water well making it less likely for your grass to fail. Peat on the other hand will form a layer which is pretty much water resistant. Brilliant Bricks are a waste product in their country of origin so they are environmentally friendly too- no destruction of wildlife’s habitat. J

Because the Brilliant Brick originates from above ground it does not contain any soil diseases. There have been claims of a study showing that they even bring resistance to some diseases.

On Planet Guinea we have stored a Brilliant Brick, when made up, for 4 weeks without mould forming. It will start to dry out and the colour will become lighter, but reabsorbtion of water will not hinder growth when more water is added.

  • How easy would it be for me to grow something to feed my guineas with?  I don’t have green fingers so I need something foolproof…….

Nothing should be described as “foolproof” but we do select varieties of Cereal Grass for ease of growth and speed of growing. Easigrow and Wheekgrass (wheat or barley) are the ones I am able to grow with minimal attention and while running a rescue and working full time as well as looking after my family!

This is all, of course, dependant on conditions, but we send step by step instructions with your order and would strongly recommend that you purchase our Super Spritzer and pay attention to the spot you select for growing your seeds. You should expect to have grass for feeding within 14 days.

The main reasons for failure involve watering (over or under) and an inappropriate growing spot. Remember that conditions change and the sun moves round so your grass may need moving at certain times of the day. The most common reason for failure seems to be where seeds are grown on windowsills where there is condensation.

Your seeds need an atmosphere similar to that of your guinea pigs but need spritzing little and often (as opposed to watering).

Other alternatives are Sunflower Greens (which take a little longer), and Plantain which grows well in a pot.

  • I’ve read about spring grass being very rich, if I grow some myself from seed, does the same apply?

Yes, “Spring Grass” is a misleading term to use. It is used when applied to horses grazing, but is better expressed as “New Grass”. All new grass is “rich”, even the grass grown inside and no matter what the variety is- even Timothy. The ideal grass for guinea pigs is mature grass and not necessarily one stuffed with nutritional goodness, it all hinges on the bigger pigture and what is included in the diet as a whole. Guinea pigs fed on Ratewatchers diet, which is hay based will be getting their nutrients from the fresh food.

  • Last year I found some Plantain in my grass and the guineas loved it.  Can it be grown in pots / grow-bags?

Plantain is one of the easier herbs to grow and for that reason is included in the Planet Guinea Mix which is suitable for growing where the run goes or in pots.

Plantain needs to be grown in a pot preferably, because of the root structure, though it will grow in grow-bags but will not be as long lived unless the grow-bag is particularly deep.

Whenever feeding any herb always mix with hay or mature grass. Herbage has very particular properties and in the wild guinea pigs will select when and how much to eat, if they are presented with only herbage then they may feel obliged to eat it if they are hungry! Watch your guinea pigs in the run and see how they select grass and herbage. Once they have got over the excitement of being outside a pattern often emerges in most guinea pigs

When feeding dry herbage the best is often the naturally occurring varieties in the hay. A good farmer will encourage natural herbage and destroy harmful herbage, though as a natural product there is no guarantee with any hay from anywhere. If you are sold a “bad bale” return it and tell the farmer why you are doing so. Better still select your bale carefully.

  • How much grass would I need to grow to give 4 guineas some each day?

We grow 25g of Easigrow per guinea pig here, so 100g per day would feed 4 guinea pigs. The packs are sold in 250g sizes, enough for 10 meals. Meal size is based on the amount that should be fed as a treat. As the grass is “rich” we consider that anymore is more likely to be harmful. Our guinea pigs often eat less than this now though. Based on putting a tray of grass in with a group, it was, at first, demolished immediately, but they have got over the fact that fresh grass is a treat here, it’s not, and they know there will always be more.

Always remember to offer plenty of hay when feeding grass or herbage. Ideally feed the hay meal prior to feeding the grass and/or herbage as well as with it. This ensures the gut is moving and will also help to prevent guinea pigs from over indulging or feeling “obliged” to eat the grass/herbage because nothing else is on offer. Never feed any grass or herbage that has signs of mould growing on it- discard it at once.

March 29, 2010  Tags: , ,   Posted in: Grasses, Herbage, Seasonal  No Comments

Brilliant Bricks!

It will be a while yet before we can reap the harvest of “naturally occuring” grass in the garden etc and so the Cereal Grass Growing continues (though we grow ours year round). When you have found a suitable grass to grow it will need a medium in which to grow. Many people successfully grow their grasses without compost but on Planet Guinea this is not a method that suits us at all- yet we do not want to put people off as many friends and customers find this preferable to using compost! Ours however goes mouldy and we end up throwing it away! We have found the same with soaking the grain prior to germination- yet others swear by it. Trial and error is the only way.

When selecting a growing medium that is “all” most people want but increasingly there is a movement towards organic and “nothing added” growing. On Planet Guineas we fall into the latter group with our primary concern being over whether anything has been added to the compost. Whilst we do not use a courier and cannot “ship” large bags of Organic Compost we can supply you with a house brick size compost “Brilliant Brick”. When water is added (by you) the Brilliant Brick increases to 8 or 9 litres in size and we have no problem keeping it for 3 weeks in a bucket.

The Brilliant Brick is made from coconut waste with nothing else added, because no nutrients have been added we use it once and then discard. Given that we only fill the seed tray to half the depth when growing grass this amounts to very little. After 12 days the roots will have taken over the bottom of the tray and will be doing the job of the compost. All the nutrients come from the grain itself, not the compost which is why regrowth is almost non existent, if its continuous growing grass you want then you will need to add nasty and unnecessary chemicals, not something we want to do here.

The Brilliant Brick is sent in a paper bag (we don’t recommend you give this to guinea in case of dust), inside a padded envelope and with full instructions, if you have any queries please email us, we are always happy to help and we do use these ourselves :)

March 4, 2010   Posted in: Brilliant Bricks  No Comments

Planet Guinea Wheekgrass (Barley or Wheat)

Planet Guinea Wheekgrass varieties are a slower growing (compared to Easigrow) Cereal Grass. Allow extra time for growth to 15cm or so, but do not feed yellowing or mouldy grass. Grass here is ready to feed at 15 or 16 days old in this “weather”, although it’s indoors. In the summer months it does much better outside in trays.

Fill a compost tray with compost half way up the sides, moisten and sprinkle 150g of Wheekgrass on top (75g in a half size seed tray). Cover with a thin layer of compost and mist (if not already moist). Place the tray in a warm position until germination which should happen within 4 days if conditions are right. Growth is very dependent on moisture and warmth.

Continue to mist frequently, we use a Planet Guinea Super Spritzer which has a fine mist and since using we have had no issues with mould growing. Air circulation and drainage are other important factors (hence the reason for recommending seed trays. Where there is no drainage roots may rot and where there is no air circulation the risk of mould is greatly increased. Some customers are washing out and using yoghurt cartons and other shallow containers.

As with all of our Cereal Grasses we recommend feeding with hay available (or cut and mixed in with hay), and as a treat only. Maximum should be the grass grown from 15g daily, per guinea pig.

Regrowth is possible, it’s not something we do here as it is very inferior to the first growth and can be unpredictable about how long it will take to grow. This is because we use the Brilliant Brick compost which has no added nutrients. A fertilised compost would alter the “make up” of the resulting grass, many have Phosphorus added for example…

February 19, 2010   Posted in: Grasses  No Comments

Planet Guinea Easigrow

Planet Guinea Easigrow can be grown year round to give guinea pigs a constant supply of grass. It is fast growing, easy to grow and extremely nutritious. Because it is in effect “new grass” it should only be fed as a treat, approximately the grass grown from 25g  grain can be fed daily. Another factor that should be considered is that it is Phosphorus high! However because it is so lightweight the effects are somewhat minimal when fed as a treat.

Easigrow should be sown onto moist compost- we use the Brilliant Bricks, they have nothing added to them. Cover with a thin layer of compost and mist, we use a Planet Guinea Super Spritzer, these are great for misting throughout the day, usually using 10ml, approximately, of water daily. Growing patterns will depend on conditions but where they are grown in a warm room germination should happen within four days, the rate of growth from then on is quite rapid providing the conditions are good. Frequent misting and warmth are very favourable for good, fast growth. By day 14 or when the grass reaches approximately 15cm high it is ready for harvesting.

Easigrow is the “healthier option”, it is less starchy than other wheat grasses, and we have always found it grows far quicker than the Wheekgrass, though the Wheekgrass is always close behind and lately we have been growing the two (separately) at the same time and using the Easigrow first followed by the Wheekgrass. A 250g pack will give you a daily serving for 5 days for two guinea pigs or the tray of grass can be placed in a pen where there are a group of guineas- one full size seed tray (sown @ our given sowing recommendation that comes with the grain), will feed 10 guinea pigs one daily serving.

Regrowth is possible, it’s not something we do here as it is very inferior to the first growth and can be unpredictable about how long it will take to grow. This is because we use the Brilliant Brick compost which has no added nutrients. A fertilised compost would alter the “make up” of the resulting grass, many have Phosphorus added for example…

As with all of our Cereal Grasses we recommend feeding with hay available (or cut and mixed in with hay), and as a treat only. Maximum should be the grass grown from 15g daily, per guinea pig.

Easigrow as enjoyed by Cloud.

Brilliant Brick (as modelled by Genie)

           

Planet Guinea Super Spritzer

February 16, 2010   Posted in: Grasses  No Comments

February hints and tips…

Currently the soil is too wet for digging over, though debris and old plants etc can be cleared from the site ready for digging. This month continue to grow the Cereal Grasses indoors and some Plantain for variety, or perhaps some Sunflower Greens- also very nutritious.

Top selling seeds in January were, once again, the Cereal Grasses. It is good to know that guineas are being fed grass despite the cold weather outside. It is, at the moment, looking like Cereal Grasses will be taking the top spot for February too but Plantain is creeping up behind as more Humans are discovering just how easy it is to grow!

Our top tips for growing Cereal Grasses in February are to keep them away from areas prone to condensation and to ensure the soil is warm. Often the growing medium is cold which impedes growth, trying using warm water when spritzing and always keep in a warm room- move the tray around the house if necessary! Remember temperatures fluctuate with heating.

February 13, 2010   Posted in: Growing calendar  No Comments

What to grow in winter…

Outside winter is the dormant season when it comes to growing, a season for resting the ground in preparation for the summer crops and forage. But growing grass etc for guinea pigs doesn’t stop in the garden, the most nutritious grass and greens can be grown indoors with a minimum amount of time and effort. Home grown grass is ideal for mid winter when Spring Greens etc start to become scarce. Only a small amount of this nutritious grass is needed so even large amounts of guinea pigs can be fed it.

Whilst any of the seeds sold on www.planetguinea.co.uk can be grown inside by far the best ones are the Cereal grasses, Easigrow and Wheekgrass (both varieties), Sunflower Greens make a welcome change and treat too.

  • Sow 250g of Easigrow/150g Wheekgrass on a full size seed tray, that is half full of moist compost, and cover lightly with another layer of compost; keep the compost moist by spraying several times daily (about 10ml of water per day, sprayed on). A fine mist spray is by far the most superior way of watering as it lessens the risk of fungal growth greatly. Similarly the seed to space ratio was chosen for the same reason.
  • Choose a location that is out of direct heat (ie not over a radiator) and take care not to place seed trays in windowsills that get condensation or where this a draught. Grass needs warmth, light and moisture to grow satisfactorily.
  • Continue to mist daily at frequent intervals until the grass has reached approximately 15cm high or is approximately 14 days old. At this stage it can be harvested. Grass that is left for longer may ‘yellow’ and will be unfit for feeding.
  • Place a whole tray of grass in the pen/cage/hutch for the a group of 5 or more guineas to eat or divide the grass up so that each guinea pig has the resulting grass from 25g of seed- a tray of Easigrow would be divided into ten and Wheekgrass into 6. Alternatively grow 25g of seed in separate pots and feed one pot per guinea pig.

Plantain is the best herbage to grow inside, not only does it grow reasonably quickly (around 6 weeks before it can be harvested, approximately) the leaves grow to a good size when the seeds are sown in a deep pot. Plantain is deceptively ‘thick’ and seeds should be sown sparingly or the pot soon becomes root bound and you won’t get the most from your plants. Growing instructions are as above (disregarding the weights).

Biscuit Marmalade and Gizmo, three satisfied customers!

Biscuit Marmalade and Gizmo, three satisfied customers!

January 14, 2010  Tags: ,   Posted in: Grasses, Seasonal  No Comments

Are Guineas Selective?

Hay is a big part of a guinea pig’s life, never mind his diet!

There are claims that pellets can “prevent selective feeding”, can they? My guineas often select not to eat pellets or certain feeds/foodstuffs, can selection really be removed from guineas? Should the option to select food be removed? Who’s to say any issues aren’t because of a lack of something in the diet? How correct is it to control what your guinea pig eats to an extent where they may be forced to eat because they are hungry, not because they are selecting what’s best for them?

The main part of the diet should be hay; whilst our domesticated guinea pigs look very different to and live in a setting very unlike that of their wild ancestors they still have the same behavioural and physical needs that must be met. Hay also being very beneficial for foraging in, again use good hay, dusty hay is as bad as using shavings.

Removing the options only narrows down the choices a guinea pig has, if the option removed was incorrect then guinea is perhaps even more likely to select the foodstuff that may be detrimental to his well being because he has no choice. By increasing the amount of good eating hay given and feeding vegetables after hay the gut will be moving (and guinea pig metabolism is fast) and the guinea pigs less likely to be greedy. There is the exception to the rule, we’ve had one or two here who seem to think every meal is their last, I wonder if they were given given lots of hay and choice in their previous homes? However giving options that are known to be bad for guineas are not advisable! This might include treat sticks with seeds and honey or mineral licks.

On Planet Guinea we belive that all the needs of guinea pigs should be met:

  • Foraging: Good hay is excellent for foraging, a small pile for sitting on or a Bag of Fun stuffed with hay to create a mound and make the hay, in theory, last that bit longer, and perhaps a hay rack were “expensive Hay” are given. In  preference to hay racks are the willow balls that can be stuffed with hay, while keeping the hay clean they allow guinea to eat with their head at a more natural height; though hay racks can be lowered the problem here is that the guineas jump in them and sit on the hay- somewhat defeating the object!
  • Being allowed to graze 24/7: Guinea pigs only need 50g of fresh food daily and that won’t last them all day! Therefore it is important for them to have hay or grass forage (1 large handful between 2 guineas) to graze on to keep those digestive systems moving and promote the correct chewing action needed to wear down their consistently growing teeth.
  • To be able to express normal behaviour: “Normal behaviour” is foraging and sitting in a big pile of hay eating to their hearts content. The guinea pigs here choose hay over any other bedding every time, unfortunately they have to make do with Flax and piles of hay…
  • To be allowed to select from a variety of foods: Provide a variety of 5 fresh vegetables daily and rotate them throughout the week so the next day they will receive some different ones. If on top of this guinea pigs have a good supply of hay and a measured amount of dry food then they have the basis for being able to select different foods- if they wish to. It also allows the Human to observe what is being eaten and what might not be. Most guinea pigs will eat certain foods first and then the others. How boring would life be if we couldn’t choose?
  • To let guinea pigs live as guinea pigs and be guinea pigs: by observing all the above points this will achieve this point for the much part, we can’t recreate the natural environment, we can meet their needs.

These beliefs come from trying out a natural diet as recommended by our then vet to help to lessen the incidents of bladderstones with Henry. Henry’s friend Cloud was also put on a pellet free diet of just grass, hay and herbage for the summer but bothed “asked” for their dry food if they saw the others getting it. Variety and moderation of everything but when feeding vegetables look at giving a Ca:Ph balanced diet that contains a variety of vegetables and in moderation so as not to saturate the urine.

January 8, 2010   Posted in: Frequently Asked Questions  No Comments

Getting the most from your Bags of Fun…

Bags of Fun sold by www.planetguinea.co.uk are great for encouraging guinea pigs to  forage, a natural behaviour that can be lost or even dangerous depending on the bedding. Fleece and veterinary bedding/Happy Soles do not cater for foraging and Planet Guinea does not recommend it as a permanent bedding used over all the guinea pigs’  living space. Similarly wood shavings are not an acceptable bedding for guinea pigs, as well as the drying action they have on the skin (leaving it prone to fungal problems) they can respiratory problems, not ideal for a guinea pig to forage in.

To help your guinea pigs get the most from their Bags of Fun it is essential that they are stuffed with a good quality hay (dust free and either golden brown or green, and smelling of grass ( as opposed to a musty smell). Dust Free Hay sell 3x dust extracted hay which the guineas here love. For extra foraging fun hide some dried Plantain amonst the hay, available from www.thehayexperts.co.uk

The rest is up to the guineas! There is no set way of using your Bag of Fun, providing it is stuffed with hay the guineas will do what comes naturally; usually eat the contents and then create their designs on the Bag- or not! Feedback from customers has confirmed that guineas seem to do the same each time with the Bag, after eating many will nibble a hole in the back and create a tunnel, others prefer to shred it until it is no more, while others prefer to sit on top of the Bags, sometimes making a noise encouraging the more optimistic members of the Planet to ‘wheek’ expectedly. The ‘non Party Pigs’ are happy to have their Bag of Fun refilled again and again :)

During 2009 we have added coloured Bags of Fun after first using them to help raise money for Comic Relief. They proved very popular with the Humans who found the brown Bags somewhat dull and boring and at their request (and insistence in some cases!) we have slowly introduced more colours and now offer Red Stripe, Blue Stripe, Pink Stripe and Rainbow coloured Bags. The guinea pigs don’t seem to favour any colour in particular but are preferring the larger Bags.

December 27, 2009   Posted in: Bags of Fun  No Comments

A Variety Of What?

A Variety of What?

Grass is the natural food of guinea pigs, but grass comes in many nutritional stages meaning it has differing benefits too. The ancestors of our domesticated guinea pigs grazed on mature dry grasses.
Popular and common advice is to ‘feed a variety of foods’ or ‘feed a varied diet’, but a variety of what and why?
  • Guinea pigs have nutritional needs, as do humans. Whilst meeting these needs is a challenge even if we meet every need we cannot easily influence how the body will metabolise (or use) what we give it. Similarly we have little or no control over any congenital conditions such as bladder stones or Osteodystrophy, but we can do our best to provide a well balanced diet.
  • The bulk of the diet must be unlimited good hay. Hay keeps the digestive system moving, promotes the correct chewing action to wear down the Molar teeth and is behaviouraly stimulating. Therefore giving hay meets 2 of the 5 Freedoms outlined by DEFRA: ‘A proper diet, including fresh water’ and ‘The ability to express normal behaviour’. Guinea pigs like nothing better than foraging in a large pile of good hay! Guinea pigs should be eating their body mass in hay daily.  ‘Good hay’ does not mean expensive, hay baled and stored for horses to eat is reasonably priced at under and around £5 a bale meaning that guineas get the maximum benefit. Any hay can contain fungal spores, the moment it is opened (if bagged) it is exposed to the environment around it and if that contains fungal spores it won’t be long before the hay does- regardless of origin. Change hay daily at least so there is plenty available to eat as well as forage in.
  • Leafy greens are the next important dietry component, they contain many vitamins, minerals and trace elements needed. Leafy greens should be fed in the correct ratio to root vegetables, with fruit being rarely or never fed. Feeding the correct balance and variety of fresh foods is important for maximum bladder health. It is probably the balance between the Phosphorus (fruit and roots in general) and Calcium (Leafy greens generally) high foodstuffs that is most instrumental in bladder health. Ratewatchers D.I.Y. Diet for guinea pigs is an easy to follow diet that takes these facts into consideration. A number of trace elements are also important and appear to be responsible for the intereactions among Calcium and Phosphorus, thus the importance of also providing a variety of balanced yet different foods where a mature grass and hay diet isn’t being fed. The Vitamin C levels needed are easily met and were the least of any concern in the diets that Planet Guinea looked at. No food is considered a ‘bad’ or ‘good’ food. Feeding a ‘variety’ of vegetables that are only Phosphorus high is not as beneficial (and may be detrimental to the health of) as feeding a variety of Calcium and Phosphorus high foods. Similarly restricting one ‘variety’ is equally unwise. For example, by restricting Calcium high foods the diet may be Phosphorus high and a different type of stone can result. A good rule of thumb is to feed a diet that is correctly balanced with Calcium and Phosphorus foods and to include a wide variety of foods within this diet.
  • Of least importance to the diet is dried mix or pelleted foods. Many guinea pig owners choose not to feed a commercial pellet or mix and their guinea pigs maintain good health with no issues caused due to the lack of a dry food diet. Where a dry food is being fed it should be as part of the overall diet as opposed to looking at it on its own, for example feed less of a high Protein pellet than low one. Other factors to be taken into consideration are here : http://www.guineapigwelfare.org.uk/guinea-pig-care/diet/dry-food-facts/
  • Water is very important to the diet and a guinea pig that does not have access to fresh water may not be eating enough. Fresh water, changed daily, must always be provided.
Why Should I Grow Cereal Grass?
  • Mature grass is the natural food for guinea pigs making them better equipped to ‘deal’ with it than other foods.
  • Growing Cereal Grasses and letting guinea graze it is beneficial to dentition.
  • The grasses contain many vitamins, minerals and trace elements.
  • Growing Cereal grass is easy, quick and much appreciated!
  • Only a small amount of grass is needed per guinea per day making it easy to grow for even those with larger amounts of guineas.
  • The medicinal benefits are often quoted about Cereal Grasses, however these are scientifically unfounded. It is widely known however, that guineas are often tempted to start eating with grass, what better than feeding one that is charged with vitamins and minerals?
  • Grow with compost from a Brilliant Brick! These are natural with no additives (and grass will ‘draw up’ nutrients from its growing medium).
  • Grass is a form of long fibre which is needed by guinea pigs to keep the digestive system working well.
  • Cereal grass can be grown all year round.
  • Cereal grass is easy to grow and the best place to grow it can be established quickly by growing pots in different locations.
  • Last but not least the guineas love it and come to expect it when it’s fed regularly.

    Rodney started to lose weight from day 1 at RGPR. He was put onto Ratewatchers diet and 25g of Cavy Cuisine after a vet had diagnosed him as being seriously overweight and unfit.

    Rodney started to lose weight from day 1 at RGPR. He was put onto Ratewatchers diet and 25g of Cavy Cuisine after a vet had 'diagnosed him' as being seriously overweight and unfit.


This advice is not intended to replace veterinary advice. You have a legal obligation to seek veterinary help if you suspect your guinea pig is ill.

November 30, 2009   Posted in: Ratewatchers  No Comments